After New York and London fashion week, you can start feeling a bit burned out. So many beautiful collections, so little time! You could spend your afternoon flipping through Style.com slideshows to keep caught up or you could come to Shoerazzi, where we offer a comprehensive look at the strongest collections of the fashion month with our eyes directed to the enviable footwear. This time around, we’re reviewing the always seductive, always gorgeous shoes of Milan fashion week.
Stella Jean is an up-and-coming designer that has been curating a lot of buzz since her launch last season. So much buzz that she managed to pull major Milan fashion power hitters into the crowd! The pattern-on-pattern-on-pattern feel of the line is both earthy and fashion forward, bohemian while still being body-conscious. The footwear mimicked the phenomenal patterning throughout the collection, making the ankle booties and stilettos alike a feast for the eyes. Those amazing colorful tweeds and African wax prints were transformed into shoes that beg to be worn everywhere, regardless of season. It’s hard to say where a brand this young is going, but one thing is certain: if they keep having clever footwear collaborations – Christian Louboutin is no slouch – and enviable apparel, the future is bright.
Like so many before it, Gucci’s Fall 2014 collection revisited the archives. Specifically? The sixties, emphasizing clean lines, precision, and snug tailoring done in a myriad of baby blues, mustard yellows, sage greens, dusty roses, and spliced with edge by animal print. The Mod appeal was complemented by the fabulous knee-high boots that pervaded the collection. The silhouette of the boots is classic, modernized by blending their iconic horsebit loafer with a Chelsea boot. In keeping with the palette of the apparel, the boots are pastel perfect.
Fausto Puglisi’s mini-skirt obsessed line is always fantastically fabulous. This season, he punched up the collection with vibrant graphic prints and leather paneling. Now, where there’s an enviable leg-baring dress, there are killer shoes to follow. The pumps were as geometrically-themed as the collection, combining supple leather and smooth suede into intriguing color combinations that would make compiling an outfit a cinch. We love the contrasting hues of the color blocked pumps, however our hearts are set on the inexplicable Lady Liberty pump that gives The Statue of Liberty a very fashionable makeover!
After last season’s spectacular collection, we were wondering how Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi would hold up to the extremely high expectations he’s been setting these past couple years. The verdict? Karl Lagerfeld Voodoo Doll aside, it was a masterful collection inspired by continental travel and the morose romanticism of the thirties. Though the fur apparel is always the main attraction of a Fendi show, the footwear designed by Nicholas Kirkwood held its own. The mid-calf booties are the perfect blend of sophistication combining supple leather and silky hair calf variants propped up by a coordinated stacked heel. Although we don’t think they’re the edgiest boots of the season, they’re a great mix of attitude and practicality
Just Cavalli, the younger sister of Roberto Cavalli, is a brand addicted to sass and vibrant colors. The collection was eclectic and funky, the shoes matching the theme to a T with their colorful, fringy goodness. Heeled, open-toe sandals were color blocked and tasseled, while the ankle boots took on a fierce life of their own. We love the plethora of on-trend colors and our heart is set firmly on a pair of those gorgeous green tassel suede booties. Seriously. Apologies in advance to our bank accounts.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s designs for No° 21 always have the appeal of a tomboy schoolgirl gone sassy; this season that wayward bourgeois appeal was in full force with floral sequins, slouching blazers, and sheer one-shouldered dresses. The shoes themselves drifted between modest 50s-inspired flats, clunky boots, and shoes that carry a very peculiar arts and crafts appeal. The pumps have everything from fleece bows to glitter covered heels embellished on top of calf hair, making them an intriguing statement piece that we can all expect to see on Anna Dello Russo before long.
After last season’s cacophony of colors, Prada’s latest offering seems almost dower by comparison. It was definitely as extravagant as we always expect (multi-colored shearling coats, layered sheer dresses that are the perfect kind of delicate), though at times felt disjointed. Luckily, the strangely bizarre and always modern shoes we await season after season reappeared with sky-high mechanical wedges embellished with industrial-looking rivets. Without a doubt, the footwear will appear on fashion It girls everywhere the millisecond they’re stocked on the shelves.
Jeremy Scott’s premiere at Moschino was just as bizarre and weird as we all expected. Taking a cue from “fast fashion,” nods to candy wrappers, Spongebob Squarepants, Budweiser, and Ronald McDonald were standard. Colorful, kooky, and just shy of completely unwearable, it was one of the more memorable collections of the season. Luckily, the footwear felt more realistic for every day wear. Would we rock the riff on the McDonald’s M? We’re not so sure, but we do love the emblem-embellished Moschino ankle strap pumps.
This season, Versace was decidedly more conservative than we’re used to seeing in recent years, shelving blatant sexuality for satin, asymmetrical hems, and military buttons. The footwear was just as vivacious as usual, however, and practically screamed “red carpet ready.” Suede over-the-knee boots were embellished with gold chain and ankle booties featured a dangerously pointed toe that would make the Wicked Witch of the West excited for fall shopping. That said, the stand-out shoe was easily the woven suede mule, where the military inspiration met seamlessly with sartorial sophistication.
Close your eyes and think of Roberto Cavalli, what do you picture? If we were to guess, you saw an explosion of fur, metallics, and snakeskin. You would be spot on! Cavalli is known for opulence and he very rarely disappoints. This season is no exception, especially where the phenomenal shoes are concerned. The ankle-strap sandals feature a classic silhouette drenched in luxuries such as beige python trimmed in metallic silver leather and a regal mirrored gold covered heel breast.
Jil Sander’s label is currently in freefall after the namesake designer resigned from the position last year, leaving the remaining design team to pick up the design books and curate a collection that stuck to Jil Sander’s DNA – even if Jil Sander wasn’t there to oversee the designs herself. So. How’d they do? Well, where the apparel stayed to a relatively neutral palette that hinted at colors instead of embracing them, the footwear (wedge brogues and platform loafers) were punchy in their vibrancy. Electric yellow snake skin, deep green laces, and merlot wedges were all part of the strong footwear offering.
Prints, studs, and fox fur – oh my! This latest collection from Peter Dundas for Emilio Pucci is one of the strongest he’s created for the legendary Italian house and that goes double for the footwear. Strappy, sexy & studded is our perfect recipe for a killer sandal. The braided leather and classic palette of the sandals make it infinitely wearable and ultimately racy. Of course, it wouldn’t be a fall line without boots and Pucci’s selection is decidedly crazier than his sandals. The cow-printed hair calf, sleek red leather, and burnished golden medallions boots are flamboyant enough to even make Tom Ford grin in appraisal.
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Fall 2014 collection offered up classic looks that did not feel stuffy and dated; supple tartans piped with black leather, needle-punched jacquard, and metallic wool blends made the collection covetable. For the footwear, the brand offered exotic skin strappy sandals and heeled loafers embellished with grommets as well as over-the-knee leather boots done in a similar motif.
Dean and Dan Catan are known for keeping kitsch and wackiness at the forefront of the Milanese runways, served with a massive helping of sass and panache. Sleek alligator leather paired with colorful jacquard in a Mod-style ensemble? Not every brand would show such a combination with a straight face, but we love DSquared2 for that reason. The footwear channeled the sixties vibe and then added the crazy. Embellished sandals walked the runway covered in elaborate gem stone vines and ankle straps were fastened with padlocks- bizarrely perfect in the DSquared2 way.
Milan Fashion Week is basically synonymous with stellar, gorgeous, and innovated shoes. Season after season, we can rely on them to amp up the footwear game with unexpected influences and executions. Spring 2014 was no exception, as each show seemed to have shoes that screamed “buy me, buy me!” as they were strut down the catwalk. Without further ado, here is your Milan Fashion Week footwear recap:
To celebrate his growing rapport with hip hop and R&B icons like Ciara, Rita Ora, and Rihanna, Peter Dundas’ latest Emilio Pucci collection is a heady combination of streetwise sportiness and opulent elegance. Perforated leather and SCUBA-inspired shaping goes head-to-head with ornate Masai embroidery in sporty lace-up booties, resulting in a shoe collection that is equal parts unique and energetic.
Thin and strappy was the name of the footwear game on Roberto Cavalli’s catwalk. Dazzling sandals were fitted with meticulously braided and knotted leather straps and laces of varying lengths, sitting overtop a sturdy stacked heel. Additionally, the muted and neutral color palette of the shoes make these gorgeous soles perfectly fit for most flouncy and flirty spring outfits.
When we think of Versace, we usually think of a punk-infused, revealing glamor. Even at their most studded and patent leathered, Versace shoes tend to be edgy and sleek. This season, Donatella did a 180° twist from what we normally expect, presenting us a shoe collection centered on a clunky-soled sandal with silver-tone buckles situated on elastic straps piped with leather. We can’t say whether or we like this direction from their design team, but judging how celebrities are already wearing the designs out and about – Lady Gaga was spotted in a lavender pair – we’re sure this will be a commercial success.
Anna Molinari’s latest Blumarine collection was all about balancing the desire to be innocent and the urge to be a provocateur. On one hand, the sandals were dainty, polite, and sweet – perfect for picaresque picnics with friends, or a mid-morning brunch with family; the slight platform was as far as the edge went. The other hand? Dramatically strapped snakeskin booties, embellished with near-gaudy gems and with a dramatically pointed toe. The duality of the collection makes it commercially viable, a pair for every personality type.
This spring collection was all about revisiting the Etro archives, so it isn’t surprising that the shoes spotted on the runway evoke a classic, timeless feel to them. Etro’s signature patterned fabrics, which we have come to know and love, could be spotted the embellished straps of sandals and delicate pumps. Metallic finishes brought them into the modern era, but the line still maintained a ‘70s party allure.
Like Versace and Emilio Pucci, Gucci’s line was heavily inspired by sports. While it isn’t quite as literal as Pucci, we saw three different styles on the runway – ribbon slashed heels, cut-out pumps, and strappy sandal-booties – with differing variations of python, leather, and suede. The illustrations of Erté and the era of Art Nouveau were the inspirations of the collection and we can see that showing through with the pops of marigold, merlot, mid-tone purple, and forest green. Our only problem with collection is that it felt very autumnal and heavy for a spring collection.
Season after season, Prada creates shoes that blogging fashionistas fawn over. Miuccia Prada is a designer that revels in the ugly, loves taking risks, and is a regular in the world of art-fashion. The high rubber sporty heels of this collection were typical of what we expect – mashed-up themes, vibrant primary colors, thick straps, oddball color blocking, and massive rhinestones bejeweled onto every available surface. They’re bizarre and they’re statement making, just how we like our Prada lines.
If Kaiser Karl’s last Fendi line didn’t reignite your love of the architectural aspects of fashion, we’re not sure what to tell you – the shoes presented on the runway were nothing short of stellar. Set upon industrial caged “double heels,” delicate interlocking straps of metallic, patent, and lizard leather were offset by an ingenious use of semi-sheer PVC and gemstones. In his apparel, he layered organza to create unique and stunning motifs; in his shoes, he used thin PVC to replicate the effect, creating an image of varying opacity. When he wasn’t doing that, he was using the vivid colored plastic to mold dramatic angles and pyramidal crevices. There was a whimsical and modern air to Fendi this season, Karl Lagerfeld has reassured us again that he is a visionary.
Dolce & Gabbana
On the spring 2014 runways, it was business as usual for iconic Italian brand Dolce & Gabbana. Those who grow tired of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s use of Sicilian culture and Italian iconography in their collections don’t understand that those ties to the Mediterranean are so ingrained within their brand’s DNA that to not include the images would not be Dolce & Gabbana. It’s a gaudy overabundance that we have come to expect, a sort of literal inspiration – like the rhinestone embellished gladiator sandal, the platform pump set upon an ionic column, the wedge studded with Roman coins – that makes us smile. It’s an artisanal workmanship that turns away from the phrase “less is more,” opting for embroidery, embellishment, and vivid colors.
As if to balance the theme of overabundance in Milan this season, Costume National went for soles that were strikingly minimalistic. To match the deconstructed tailoring of the collection, the footwear feels distinctly practical with a unique edge. There is something in the dramatic point of the closed-toe, the exaggerated slope of the foot, and the color finishes – mostly monochromatic, but we can’t get enough of the woodgrain-inspired pattern on some of the shoes – that make this a unique and downright cool shoe collection.
Jil Sander’s footwear collection was among the more classically inspired from Milan Fashion Week, with focus primarily on breathing new life into the classic oxford. How? Well, with a massively chunky wooden platform heel, of course. The flats on the runway were also not-quite-flat, elevated by an inch or two of platform (flatforms, we like to call them) that drew attention to the added height with the use of dichromatic color blocking. Dove grey, stark white, black, and taupe were the stars of the color palette.
For their spring collection, Salvatore Ferragamo stayed within a muted and soft color palette. Save for the occasional use of black, this season was about an earthy-toned romanticism based in neutral snake skins and soft beiges. Boxy shapes and square toes were innovated by tiny eyelets and nailhead studs skattered along the snakeskin, internal metal plating, external seaming along the ridges, and unique, double-take worthy flared heels. We even love the exaggeration of the edges with the large buckles, it’s a high fashion pilgrim look that we can’t wait to spot on savvy style stars.
Zoë Kravitz is featured in the September 2013 issue of Harper’s Bazaar “Singular Beauties: An Homage to the Diversity of Women” issue wearing Fendi booties. These heels are from the Fall 2013 collection featuring black & white striped calf hair, fur striped trim front panel and 120mm heel. They’re available in black leather with pink & white fur trim at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Naomie Harris wore Fendi peep-toe booties to Karl Lagerfeld’s ‘The Glory Of Water’ exhibition preview party held at the new Fendi Paris Flagship Store. These heels are from the Spring 2013 collection featuring layers of lizard panels, patent leather ankle-strap and a colorful rubber pyramid studded 115mm heel. They’re available online (on sale!) in black at Nathalie Schuterman & Eskeption or white at Marissa Collections & Natalie Schuterman.
She posed outside the venue wearing a Fendi Spring 2013 cotton floral textured white dress with a high collar and exaggerated peplum at the hips. Her hair was styled in a side ponytail and she also carried a Jean acrylic clutch by Edie Parker.
It’s become tradition – every season I enjoy looking through the Accessories Index at Style.com and selecting my top 10 shoe picks.
First, these are market director Marina Larroudé’s top choices:
Here are my top picks:
I would love to know what’s on your must-have list. Sophia Webster’s embroidered boot is such a standout! Another easy addition to my list was the crystal-embellished sandal by Tabitha Simmons – it’s so stunning. Not surprisingly, Ms.Olivia Palermo has already snatched up & worn the beautiful Aquazzura Madison feather pumps.
More top shoes:
I’ve been collecting lookbooks and making notes of trends all summer – a giant fall trends post is coming up next.
I’m also working on a personal post of the shoes I’ve been wearing recently & I promise it will be posted soon. X
Emilia Clarke was spotted wearing Fendi Mary Jane slingbacks outside the Cort Theatre in NYC after her ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ performance. These shoes feature smooth grey leather and suede slingback, skinny black leather strap across the foot and stacked heel. They’re available online at Barneys.
She wore a casual white sweater paired with a navy varsity jacket, white pants and skinny black belt. Emilia also carried an equestrian-inspired black leather Stirrup satchel bag by Ralph Lauren.
The footwear that made their debut on the runways in Milan was quite the mix of styles. We saw wooden platforms, thick tractor rubber soles and stitched satin detailing at Prada (much more wearable than last season).
Fendi says you can indeed wear Nemo (a clownfish print in fur) on your feet and presented colorful fur booties which complemented the other fur accessories including monster puff balls, mohawks and sunglasses.
I wasn’t too surprised by Versace’s designs as they were still “sexy rocker chic” as ever. They used the same spikey embellishment which we saw on several Tom Ford styles this spring.
Dolce & Gabbana’s Byzantine and Venetian mosaic influence translated into their footwear as well…particularly on the golden platform wedge. There were also a few golden cage designs with romantic floral wrapped around the bars.
One of my favorite styles was the cross-strap pump at Emilio Pucci which featured a stingray covered pointed-toe and skinny stiletto.
Jessica Alba is featured in the February 2013 issue of InStyle wearing Fendi colorblock sandals. These heels are from the Spring 2013 collection featuring layers of lizard print leather and completely studded heel. This collection was a collaboration between Nicholas Kirkwood and Karl Lagerfeld’s team. They’re available online in black at LuisaViaRoma.
Jennifer Lopez was spotted wearing Fendi Fendista platform boots while out in London. These boots are from the Fall 2012 collection featuring black suede, patent leather trim and gold logo platform. They’re available online at Forward by Elyse Walker and Saks Fifth Avenue.
She’s currently on the Dance Again World Tour and has worn these booties all over Europe. This time she paired them with a Valentino coat featuring white pleated sides and black leather leggings. Check out more shoes spotted on Jennifer.